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Naitik6680 this amp is not very reliable don't west your time

2021-12-29 01:54:25 Helpful (0)
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Q: how many watts RMS ?

Asked by danisandz1 on 2019-08-03 08:38:44

Lasergraph 500 watts into 4 Ohms from 65 0 65 volt PSU but with 10% Distortion and it sounds awful. Run it at 380 watts and you get 0.1% distortion and it sounds OK.

2019-11-16 09:40:54 Helpful (4)
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Q: please recomand amp

Asked by gmeet2213 on 2019-10-30 12:39:30

Lasergraph Run at 500 watts the amp produces 10% distortion and sounds awful! Turn the amp down to 380 watts and the distortion drops to 0.1 % and then the amp sounds OK

2019-11-16 09:34:20 Helpful (1)
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Lasergraph You need a mains transformer with either a 40 volts 0 volts 40 volts centre tapped secondary or a 40 volts 0 volts and a 40 volts 0 volts pair of secondary windings. The secondary windings need to be able to source at least five amps. You will then need a pair of bridge rectifiers that can handle 100 volts at ten amps and a pair of smoothing caps of one hundred volts and ten thousand micro Farads

2019-11-16 09:12:31 Helpful (4)
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Q: where can i find assembly instructions and a schematic

Asked by Stan Wilson on 2018-04-28 10:32:40

Lasergraph assembly instructions

2019-09-09 07:24:39 Helpful (0)
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Lasergraph The two reds go to the positive supply rail, the two blacks go to the negative supply rail and the blue goes to supply positive feed to the load and the load returns back to the negative supply rail.

2018-10-18 03:59:33 Helpful (0)
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Q: can this meter be calibrated?

Asked by CJBtha on 2018-06-11 01:31:47

Lasergraph No it can not as it comes is as it is. You could make a "calibrated table" by measuring the voltage displayed on the module compared to the voltage displayed on a known calibrated voltmeter using a variable voltage power supply.

2018-10-18 03:54:07 Helpful (2)
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Lasergraph There are various versions of this module and it depends which one you have or order.

2018-10-18 03:46:22 Helpful (0)
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Lasergraph 09/10/2018
These switch connectors come in two different sizes sixteenmm and nineteenmm diameter. Each connector is a tight fit on to the switch body, each connector only fits the switches it is designed for. The connector is so tight a fit that there should no risk of the connector coming away from the switch when the switch is in use. This makes the connector ideal for use in equipment used outdoors or subject to a lot of vibration during transit For example the sixteenmm connector has the two lamp contacts either side of the connector and the three contacts for the change-over switch right across the middle of the switch / connector. Whereas, the nineteenmm connector has the two lamp contacts laid out the same as the sixteenmm connector but the three switch change over contacts are offset one side of the centre line of the switch. This means a sixteen-mm connector will not fit on a nineteen-mm switch and visa versa. The connectors just push on to the back of the switch and bring out the two contacts for the switch lamp as well as the three poles for the switch contacts. The wires coming out of the connector are colour coded and about 100mm long leaving plenty of length. The connectors are a good firm fit on the switch and make a very good contact to the switch tines. When you use these connectors it is very important that the switch tines are straight, square and parallel to the rear of the switch before the connector is pushed into place. If the tines are not checked and found to be straight, correctly spaced the connector can bend the tines out of the way when the connector is fitted and then the connector will not connect to all of switch contacts. When this happens you have to remove the connector, straighten the bent tine(s) with a pair of miniature pliers. If you are careful and do a visual check at the contact tines at the back of the switch before you push the connector then you will not have any problems, The switches, along with the connectors make a brilliant combination, the ends of the connector wires can either be soldered into a PCB or they can be crimped and soldered into a five pole connector. If the switch were to have been soldered it would take a while to unsolder the old failed switch, replace the switch and solder in the new switch whereas with the connector fitted, you just remove the connector, remove and replace the switch, replace the connector and the job is done. There are a number of different switches that can be used with each of the connectors. All of the switches that can be used with these connectors can be found on Banggood by doing a filtered search. All in all this is a very highly recommended product, I would never consider soldering to a switch again, I would always use these connectors.
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Q: Are you very, very sure the green is 520nm? And not 532nm?

Asked by -bart- on 2018-08-04 01:14:32

Lasergraph Yes the green is definately 520 nm, it is a diode laser not a frequancy doubled 1064nm diode pumping a frequancy doubling crystal to 532nm. Pure diodes are proving to be more reliable in the long term and cheaper to produce as they are much simpler than Diode Pumped Solid State (DPSS) lasers The other nice thing about this module is that the red is at 635nm not the usual 650nm so it looks much brighter. I hope that helps you.

2018-10-07 07:38:55 Helpful (1)
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