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  • 14/12/2014

    It seams this display shipped out in two different types, I have ordered my from UK warehouse (super fast shipping to Germany!) and I got the SPI version (but pads labeld as SCL, SDA, RST, D/C). Try to connect like i2c, but not work, try SPI with SCL = SCK, SDA = MOSI, RST = Reset & D/C = A0, and it works fine! ;) I use the u8glib. But I can't use it for my project, becourse I need the i2c connection...

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  • 18/12/2014

    I'm really pleased with this display. So far it's been fairly easy to set up for the Adafruit library. The U8glib was harder, but once I did a bit of background research I sorted it out. Here's the line I added to the constructor call in the examples:- U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(13, 11, 10, 9, 8); // SW SPI Com: SCK = 13, MOSI = 11, CS = 10, A0 = 9, RST = 8 //Pin 10 CS is no connection (NC). The library needs cable select, but it isn't used. Added pin 8 for reset. SCL = SCK SDA = MOSI RST = Reset D/C = A0 I did have concerns that it might not work with 5V, but it does work fine with 5 volts

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  • 14/10/2015

    Pins out are in order of: GND, VCC, SCL, SDA, RST, D/C. Must use 3.3v power when interfacing with 3.3v logic. SPI hardware connection are: 13=>SCL, 11=>SDA, 7=>D/C, 8=>RST. Use Adafruit_SSD1306 library and hardware SPI option. Set OLED_DC=7 and OLED_RESET=8. There is no CS to control so you can't use this in a multi-display system. Work great for projects requiring very small display. Documentation is lacking so you have to do some research. This is why I added the info above. Hope it will help someone.

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  • 17/10/2014

    After a long phase of modifying MultiWii 2.3 code and searching the web, I finally got this one working with the MWC MultiWii SE 3.0 board. The solution: Open LCD.cpp, go to function "void i2c_OLED_init(void)" and add the following lines at the end after the last "#endif" before first "delay(20);": i2c_OLED_send_cmd(0x8D); i2c_OLED_send_cmd(0x14); Hope this saves you some time! :)

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  • 25/08/2014

    As Keptenkurk correctly pointed out, it is indeed not required to use the u8glib option "NO_ACK". I assumed it would be required after reading documentation of u8glib. I saw that V1.16 brought support for devices that do not send the I2C ACK (SDA output from SED1306 N/C). But after hooking up a Saleae 8-channel LA (also from Banggood - great item!), I noticed that the ACK is actually on the bus. Yes, this OLED really has the bidirectional SDA line implemented. Great! However, for speed purposes I still use the NO_ACK option, as there is no need waiting for the ACK if it also works without it. Saves a little time (but really only barely noticeable on the LA). Also, in the meantime, I was so brave to check if the display really works with 5V. As you can clearly see the voltage regulator at the back of the PCB, I thought I trust the item description and really try it. Works like a charm. Again, thanks for that great item! Much more quality than expected.

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  • 11/08/2014

    After scouring the interwebs for instructions, here are the cliff notes to hooking this display to an Arduino Pro Mini (SKU099688 5V 16M Pro Mini AtMega328P). Download the SSD1306_128x64_i2c and graphics libraries from github. Unzip them and copy the files to folders named "adafruit_gfx" and "adafruit_ssd1306". Notice! there are no upper case letters or hyphens allowed in the folder name. You need to make sure you change the names. 0x3D changes to 0x3C Change "display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3D)" to "display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3C)" The FT232RL USB to serial converter (SKU116803) plugs right into the Pro Mini and you don't even have to solder it if you hold it tightly while programming. I soldered mine. The gotcha here is you need to tick the little box in the advanced serial port setting in Windows for this port. Depending on your Windows version, something like this: Control Panel>Advanced system settings>Hardware>Device Manager>Ports>Properties>Port Settings>Advanced> "Set RTS on close" The documentation I found for the Pro Mini has the I2C pins as D4 and D5. This is incorrect. Actually the correct pins are A4 (SDA) and A5 (SCL). Arg! I hope this saves you countless hours and you should be up and running in minutes.

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  • 09/09/2017

    Note - this is the 6 pin version, which requires some specific wiring for Arduino. Use the U8G2 library (https://github.com/olikraus/u8g2/) and the following setup: U8G2_SSD1306_128X64_NONAME_F_4W_SW_SPI u8g2(U8G2_R0, /* clock=*/ 12, /* data=*/ 11, /* cs=*/ 10, /* dc=*/ 9, /* reset=*/ 8);

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  • 18/08/2014

    I own both the white and yellow/blue ones and drive them through a flyfish-tech.com FF32 interface. Used a modified version of the py-gaugette python library. I disagree with haemi79 that NO_ACK should be used. SDAin (pin 10) and SDAin (pin 11) are interconnected on these boards. This provides an Acknowledge on the external SDA pin. I drive the boards with 3.3 V and they are amazingly bright, yet 0.96 inch is small... see my pages at keptenkurk.wordpress.com for more details.

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  • 27/12/2018

    Reçu rapidement écran parfait pour petit projet arduino, écran lumineux pour utilisation dans le noir, reste quand même petit vivement du oled 1.3 Spi...

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  • 01/04/2016

    This display works on SPI but also on IIC. For IIC solder resistors as depicted by the board: R1,R4,R6,R7,R8(all 4k7 or 472 SMD). Leave R5 solderd to the board. You'll need one extra resistor around 4k7 (but anything from3k9 to 5k3 will do) Pull RES high to VCC and DC low to GND. Probably need a capacitor on RES line. IIC adress is 0x3C

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